Peter wright anvil dating websites dating ratemybody
I don’t see those flats on this anvil which may be a clue.
I would say it’s a Trenton or Arm and Hammer, possibly Hay Budden. There aren’t any ledges on the feet that are also typical for Peter Wrights. I found that if the degree on the wedges is too much they will spit out like pumpkin seeds.
I think the first number is hundredweight (112 lbs? As far as the condition of the face, I'd suggest calling some machine shops to see if any of them reface anvils. If the base cast iron portion of the anvil is in good condition, a new face and a dressed horn will put you in business. Concerning how to tell the weight, just place it on some scales. Jayhawk John Athens, Ga Personally, I wouldn't mill the face.
First of all, the steel face will be very difficult to cut without expensive carbide cutters and probably cost you a bit of cash.
My first anvil was made from a piece of railway track, and weighs 25 kg (about 50 lb).
This is fine if you are doing jewellery or other fine work, but hopelessly inadequate for anything else.
Since then, the jewellers art has fallen by the wayside and blacksmithing has taken over.
As of March 2005 I have completed the required blacksmithing units of the Manufacturing Technology (7792) course in Blacksmithing, namely NF300 (Anvil Forging I), NF301 (Power Hammer Forging I), NF302 (Power Hammer Forging II), NF303 (Power Hammer Forging III), NF304 (Stamping Dies), NF305 (Forging Levers and Bosses), NF306 (Forging Lifting Gear), NF308 (Fabrication and Forging), NF309 (Alloy Steel Forging), NF310 (Spring Making and Repair), NF311 (Forging Discs and Solid Rings), NF313 (Shaft Forging), NF314 (Basic Heat Treatment), as well as the supplemental units Anvil Forging II, Anvil Forging III, Non Ferrous Forging, Tool Making and Repair, and Architectural Forging.
I have been thinking about milling the face flat again.Any idea what the E stands for and what the holes are for? Nice anvil I bid up to 0 on a beautiful 176lb P/W and didn`t get it.Thanks for any info Brian I`d have to see a pic of it to tell how old it is, and as for the holes in the anvil, as far as I understand it, they were used for handling the anvil probably for the heat treating of the top plate. Should be a real nicec anvil, take a ball bearing and bounce it from 14 to 18" and see how far it rebounds...it5 probably will almost come right back to 18" probably 16 1/2 to 17" if it does...you`ve got a winner! I started researching historical anvils to that end.The following are a series of early blacksmithing images I have compiled.
It is my understanding that the anvil is wrought iron with a steel face.